Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Narrowboating - a relaxing holiday?

We had our first proper holiday on Ripple last week, with the aim of taking her from Bosley Locks to the Lancaster via the Ribble Link. Things didn't start well as I'd twisted my knee while out walking, and struggled with opening locks, climbing onto the roof etc.

Patrick's parents met us at the top of Bosley Locks, having moved the boat there from its moorings at High Lane, and we had a good time going through the locks and admiring the beautiful scenery around there, including Bosley Cloud. A little creature ran in front of me, perhaps a bank vole, before changing it's mind and disappearing into a hedge. We moored at Congleton, near the excellent Queen's Head, which has a variety of unusual real ales, including Centurion's Ghost and Cottage Whippet (Dark Whippet?). I also had a very good Chicken Jalfrezi curry there. Then it was off to the Beartown Tap for some more good beer including one of my all time favourites, Kodiak Gold.

So far so relaxing but drama was to come. Wind speeds began to pick up and I made a hash of turning the corner at Hardings Wood Junction. As Patrick tried to rectify the mistake, backing towards the bridge, he shouted - and I noticed that the wooden tiller handle had snapped! There was a worring moment for me till I noticed his hand was OK and had only been grazed on one finger against the bridge.

Next stop was Sandbach, a market town with a surprisingly large number of pubs - we stopped for a pint of Robinson's Unicorn at the Market Tavern, with 4 other pubs within sight (as well as the interesting Stone Crosses), and pies at the local bakery. We also discovered an Armenian delicatessen and off-licence which boasted that it stocked every available whisky in the UK! We were given expresso and fruit juice as we pondered the vast range of spirits, beers and ciders before choosing Jura Superstition, Auchtentoshan 10-year old, Wentworth's Rampant Gryphon and Oatmeal Stout and Sheppys organic cider. We also got the world's strongest cider given free by the manager, who could see we appreciated our booze! We also couldn't resist a baclava-type dessert which we devoured back on the boat.

We moored overnight at Middlewich and dined at our favourite romantic spot, the Narrowboat - food as superb as ever. Next morning we bought a swanky Rosewood tiller handle for Ripple and headed off past the Anderton Lift to moor at Preston Brook, and visited the Tunnel Top (no real ale but good food).

The Bridgewater canal was a bit of a different experience, heading through the more genteel Cheshire villages, nice and wide but with less facilities for pleasure boats than the British Waterways canals. Another good stop at Grappenhall Village, very pretty with 2 lovely pubs - the Ram's Head and the Parr Arms. The route through Manchester was uneventful, apart from disturbing a stoat sitting on a discarded sofa (no doubt wishing for beer, telly and a ciggie!).

We met Ian and Toby at the Barton Swing Aqueduct, which duly swung, giving our guests an impressive sight at the start of their trip. Patrick got wery wery dwunk in Wigan - the moral of this story, never try to keep up with Ian drinking!

Ian and Toby's help proved invaluable as the wind speeds continued to pick up - the lock gates on the Rufford Branch were tricky, and the unusual paddles also took time to unlock with the one remaining anti-vandal key (keys detest Patrick and make their way away from him quickly and secretly). As soon at the boat slowed, it would ground itself on the far bank and refuse to budge. At one point it took both Ian and Patrick pulling on the centre rope to pull it off again. Patrick insisted on steering through the locks, as Ripple at 62ft long would only just fit. It was a relief to reach Tarleton, where we were reunited with Patrick's parents and the car.

Next morning we discovered that the previous night's crossings had been cancelled due to the high winds, so there was a long queue at the lock into the River Douglas. Ripple was right at the back, and went through the lock with a red narrowboat that we planned to follow. As soon as we were out of the lock Patrick realised just how strong the tidal pull was (the tide was against us). We made very slow progress down the river,on the right hand side away from the main pull of the tide, however the red boat was still in sight. When we turned into the Ribble, Ripple lurched alarmingly and people started to wonder if they could swim to the bank! However Patrick remained in control at the tiller, and we rounded the Asland Lamp successfully. Progress was painfully slow up the Ribble, with the winds directly against us, the tide turning and at one point hail started to come down. The red narrowboat soon disappeared out of sight. Patrick confessed later that he was quite stressed at this point - we were going at about 1 1/2 miles per hour and if we had started moving backwards we would have had to call for help. British Waterways called us whilst we were perhaps half a mile away to tell us that they were running out of water, and were closing the lock at Savick Brook. They told us to head for Preston Dock. My heart sank at this point, as the weather was getting worse if anything! Further up the Ribble the river noticeably narrowed and progress became slightly easier. The open lock gates at Preston Dock were a welcome sight! The staff at the Marina were very good to us - they let us moor in the lock itself as the marina itself was quite choppy, and gave us a key to the showers. Steam trains ran across the nearby swing bridge, to Patrick's Dad's delight. There was a nice pub nearby called the Waterfront, which had a carvery and a good pint of Taylor Landlord.

Next morning we had to hang about for high tide - then the lock keeper opened the top entrance and the swing bridge so that we could turn round in the basin (the lock was slightly too small at 65ft across). Then it was down the lock again and on to the Ribble, this time the weather was pleasant so that bit was quite easy! Once through the first lock on the Savick Brook we had to wait again for the tide to lower, so that Ripple could get under the bridges - but the brook was very narrow and twisty-turny, so that Ripple kept grounding in the middle as we steered round corners. We had to reverse up the 3 staircase-locks due to Ripple's length, which was again quite scary but Patrick managed well. Then at last we moored on the Lancaster Canal and prepared for Patrick's parents to take over. Poor old Patrick then had to drive all the way back from Preston to Bath, and our troubles were not over yet - Junction 21A was closed on the M6 so we had to do a tour of the Cheshire countryside. We finally arrived home about 11pm.

Glad I'm not working at the moment - I'd need another holiday to recover from that one!!

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